Thu/26

This year my best travel buddy and I decided to go to London for New Year’s Eve. Then London and Dublin. And then London, Dublin, and Amsterdam. I’d been many times, for him it would be his second to London and first to the other two.

And so it was on Boxing Day 2019 that we met up to catch the American Airlines flight from JFK to Heathrow. We arrived early so we splurged $59 to access the Admiral’s Club. To be honest, we were a bit dismayed. There were not many food options. There was a tomato vegetable soup, mac and cheese with fixins, some cookies and brownies, and salad. They also had the unmitigated gall to charge for sandwiches and the unfortunate rice curry dish that was overspiced and basically unedible. I would be PISSED if I were a card member with access that had to pay for a subpar meal. But that was just the club.

The flight was ok. We booked one row of two seats, three rows from the back, 41 K and L to be exact. While it was nice not having row partners, the seats had two flaws. The window seat is a little far from the wall so you can’t use it as something to lean on. It does give you a little extra room to the side of the seat to put a bag or coat though. The other problem is the alignment of the mechanism that holds the row in front to the floor. For both seats it impinged on having a good place to put your legs and be comfortable. The seats are, not unpredictably, too close together.

The vegetarian meal that came for me was fairly inedible so that was two meals in a row for me. I ate the chips and extra bits, but the curry was a miss. My mates meal was, apparently, worthy of finishing. After watching one movie that shouldn’t have been made, Hustlers, and a few on/off hours of sleep later, we arrived. The weather was overcast and only slightly chilly, but importantly, no rain. We took the Picadilly and then the VIctoria to Vauxhall and then the 88 (two fat ladies) to our hotel the IHG Holiday Inn Express. I’d used miles and points for the hotel so it was a great deal, though despite being a platinum member it was way too early to check in. No bother really, we dropped our bags and were on our way.

F/27

On the intinerary for the day was a start at the nearby Tate Britian. I’m a member so I can see the special shows for free and when I want, as opposed to being on a pay as you go timed ticketed scheme. I upgraded to a double and we went to see the WIlliam Blake (illustrations) and Mark Leckey shows. Niether was quite my taste or speed although the extensive Blake show did have a few asthetically pleasing works. We also saw a few short films and works that provided some enjoyment so it wasn’t a complete wash.

For lunch we toddled over to Milbank Spice where we the first customers of the day. We ordered the Onion Bhaji, Vegetable Samosas, and a vegetable curry to share. The Bhaji was a little greasy but flavourful beyond words with a creamy mint sauce accompanyment. The Samosas too were well cooked and delicious. The curry did also not disappoint and after two green teas we were energized for the next portion of the day.

A Victoria line up to Euston brought us to our next stop, the Wellcome Collection. This ever-changing, free museum with a scientific but artistic bent, never ceases to amaze me. On each visit there’s always a great show and I always spend more time than I expect. I highly recommend it. We then took a short walk to the Grant Museum, which, sadly but not entirely unexpectedly, was closed. I’d hoped to stop in and say hello to my adopted specimens the taxidermy Koala whom I’ve named “Cuddles” and the taxidermy Cuckoo which my friend, for whom the adoption was a gift, has named Cocoa. Luckily, they will be open in a week’s time when I return. The Grant, in case you are wondering allows donors to “adopt” a specimen for a year or lifetime, and have their names put on a card with the specimen itself. It’s a great way to donate to the museum, and create a fun legacy in the process.

A visit to my two guilty pleasures and happy places, Primark and TK Maxx near Tottenham Court Road finished out the afternoon. For the record I got a flowery dress shirt for New Years Eve and a rather distinct polo top at Primark, while I found a Vivienne Westwood tshirt for which I admittedly paid too much for but I don’t care. I LIVE for the planet logo.

After a rest up for one of us at our Days Inn hotel Vauxhall and a spiritual recharge for the other we tried to eat at Bonnington Cafe in Vauxhall only to find it closed for the hols. We tried to find something in the neighborhood but most were closed or closing soon so we opted for the 2nd closest resto to the hotel, Mumbai Delight.

My 4th indian meal in a row. The restaurant is well run, decorated, with great heat and background music. The food were mostly delicious although our afternoon Bhaji tainted our review of the evening version. We had three apps and one main with rice and puri. The two mocktails we had were also quite good, although the mint was the superior of the two.  I also would definitely recommend and would definitely eat here again. It was also also economically. Opting for an earlish night in although I should have been asleep an hour ago. I blame my readers. OK, you’re worth it.

Sa/28

They serve a decent free hot and cold breakfast at the Holiday Inn Express Vauxhall. There’s scrambled eggs, sausage, bacon, beans, bread/toast, cereals, youghurt, fruit, juice, and coffee. After getting in on that action and pounding the coffee, we took a quick detour to the HSBC vauxhall where I took out cash from one of my US accounts and used another machine to deposit it into my UK account. Next stop was the Tate Modern. We looked at some of the temporary (paid) exhibits and exhibits including Nam June Paik, Olafur ELiasson, and Dora Maar. The latter was really not my speed, but I greatly enjoyed the other two. Nam June is one of my favourites and has been an inspiration for, well, amost ever. The rooms included works, like TV garden, and ephemora, like TV bar displyed next to video of Charlotte Moorman wearing them. The Eliasson exhibit was fn and playful and includes an amazing live still-frame water drops, a smoke filled colour hallway, and various refracted implements. VERY cool.

We took a stroll past the Golden HInde on the way to Southark Cathedral, and enjoyed a quick stroll through there. Next up we stopped in Borough Market hoping to score some lunch. Most of the stands were MOBBED, and when we finally found the more restaurant type space called Brood we were excited. No sooner was that dashed with the realization that we needed to go outside, wait on line, and collect our food there. They take the orders from the back of the line, give you back the receipt, and then you hand it to the chefs who then make your food. There is no attempt at either modernaiztion or speed.

The order and pay went quickly, but the wait for food took upwards of 2 minutes. There seemed to be one person in particular who was mucking up the works. TO make matters worse, the food itself, a falafel wrap and a vegetable burger, were prepared by someone else beyond the person in the middle so in essence they could have been preparing our food while we stood and waited for the food of everyone else to be made by someone else. A word of suggestion: COMPUTERIZATION. The burger was good, the falafel ok and I will never eat here again. NOT recommended.

Next up was the Fashion and Textile Museum which had an exhibit of Zandra Rhodes. It was sadly not my cup of tea and the work seemed dated and not interesting. The most interesting bit was seeing that she hand silkscreened some of the patterns. We needed a break so we wet back to the hotel where he napped and I refreshed for a run into Soho. I flew through the jewelry counter at Vivienne Westwood to see if there were any pieces I might like. A no.  I also went down Carnaby street looking into Ben Sherman, Diesel and a few others. Saw some cute polos and button downs at BS, but none was quite right. WIll need to come back to finish off some of the shops.

We met back up for a coffee before taking in the Goldilocks and the Three Bears Christmas panto at London Palladium. Two and half fun filled hours later we spilled out onto the street. We met some friends at The Quebec but we didn’t stay long as the Holiday fest near Marble Arch was just letting out and had infiltrated the bar. We went to Halfway to Heaven instead and enjoyed the almost never ending drag show. The trio kept picking three songs and letting the audience decide, not always to their favour. They did sing live though, and, mostly,  looked like they were having fun. They ended with All I want for Xmas is you and a Spice Girls Meddley. Good fun!

Su/29

After breakfast we took the number 2 to Victoria and the Southern Train to Gatwick. Total trip was less than 1 hour. Shorter and more comfortable, but more expensive than the trip to Heathrow. We hemmed and hawed in the terminal before deciding to check into one of the lounges, only to realize we had to leave immediately. Pretty comical really.

We arrived at the gate seconds before the start of priority boarding where we went 10 feet and then had to wait again for our Ryan Air flight. They state that the carry-on must be less than 10kg and allow an additional small bag, but although we took care to keep our bags light, they never checked. We also had good access to the overheads so we were sorted for the very short flight to Dublin.  When we arrived we bought 72 hour Link cards for 19.50 euro although they seem to push a more expensive variation that includes a hop on/off bus for twice that amount. The card clock starts running when you first use it so it would include the bus to and from the airport in 3 days time. The bus states it takes 45 minutes, but it took us less than that due to no traffic.

After checking in at the Harding Hotel, across the street from Christchurch, we did some walking about. Mostly window shopping, but we had a piece of pizza and stopped into a few thrift stores and found one or two little knickknacks including two mugs for the room that held more than a thimble full of coffee.

Later we went for our reservation at Platform 61. The venue, on William Street South is down a few stairs that open into the front room. There’s a recepton desk and bell that it recommends be rung if no one is about. While there were a few spaces available there, we were instead directed to the empty room in the back, past the service bar and nearer the kitchen. It was actually nice to have a more private dining experience and we were given the option of either room. My dining partner ordered the celeriac soup which was served with some bread and was absolutely delicious. We followed this with the pumpkin ravioli and risotto, both of which were flavourful and complex in texture. Truly delicious and both were just the right amount to save some room for dessert. We opted for the deconstructed crumble which was a perfect finish to the meal. The service was also quite nice, friendly without being overbearing or artificial.

 

We finished the night with a visit to the George where a (lipsynching) drag show was finishing. The space itself is large, but somehow everywhere feels like a hallway. Perhaps all the proper places to sit or stand were taken, but it felt a bit awkward. It was good fun, however, and it certainly looked like everyone else was having a good bit of craic.

M/30

We started the morning with a trip to the, unfortunately named, All-American Laundry on Great Georges Street. I handed in my laundry and said I would like a wash and fold and the attendant asked, would you like it dried as well? How very literal. I guess specific is good!

Next we jumped on one of the many buses leading west for our morning tour reservation for the Kilmainham Gaol (jail). It was a little under an hour in total bit included some great information about the history of Ireland and especially the creation of Ireland as a Republic. It is a bit cold inside, colder than outside!, so prepare for that if going in winter as we did.

 

Next we walked down the road to the Red tram (Luas) line to go to the National Museum of Decorative Arts and History only to find it didn’t open until 1p. So, one could say we went and didn’t see a single thing we like and, therefore, can’t recommend it. 🙂

Next we wandered up and over to StoneyBatter where we popped into Maureen’s. When she asked if we were looking for anything in particular and I answered no, she gave me a disapproving nod and look so I quickly countered that I was looking for a card for my mum who would soon be 101. She countered that she could give me birthday or 100. Apparently not both. The store itself is small and features random bits one might need for the day, frozen foods, chocolate, drinks, cards, etc. I think she’s the big draw. As we were leaving two women came in for a visit and some things and it looked like she might have a soft heart inside that somewhat crusty exterior.

We also found a locked gate at St Michan’s so that’s a yet for next time.

Having survived those encounters, and with not much open, we went back to the tram for the trip over toward the Jameson Distillery. Here my mate and I parted, he to the tour, me toward O’Connell for some retail therapy.   I stopped in a few shops before settling in a more welcoming large shop called Penneys. Inside I realized I was actually in Primark under a different name but I had a wander around.  I settled on a simple dark wash pair of jeans that had a nice fit to replace the faded, loose pair I’d been wearing. I tried to find a dress shirt for NYE, but failed. I stopped into an Irish store where they had some nice sweaters and scarves and almost bought a red Scotch plaid scarf that felt good to the hands, but not so to the face.

My friend and I walked down Dublin One where I popped in a shop and found a white dress shirt with blue and purple flowers that would suit well for NYE for only 10 Euro. Score. We then crossed over the river, picked up the laundry, stopped in a thrift shop where I almost bought a pair of fancy G-Star Raw trousers without trying them on because they were 31/34 only to find they were closer to 32s and falling off, had no belt loops in the front, and were a bit on the long side. Although I could easily hem them, I decided no and we moved on.

We dropped the laundry and had a quick coffee at the hotel before running across the street to Christchurch. The sign outside said closed and while we pondered that, I saw people coming and going and eventually decided to just see if maybe it was closed for the service. Yes, it was. Inside it was us and a handful of families ready to build their  Christingles. We dutifully uilt ours, with an orange, a red bow, a candle and 4 skewers of sweets. Each with a meaning, for example the orange symbolizes the world, the candle Jesus, etc. My mate was particularly chuffed with his bow. This was followed by a brief service which included a new hymn, some lovely prayer, and the lighting of the tingles off the advent wreath. We also got a quick twirl around the church afterwards so it was super cool.

We had a little break and then met up to go to Pantibar which was just the right amount of crowded and was good fun, followed by closing up St 66, which is massive. Pantibar is operated by a local drag queen, appears to have a strong Absolut connection, and is a bt fancy and pricey, but is quite popular. St is more mixed, much larger and laid back and a bit cheaper.

We ended the evening with a trip to Johnny Rockets nearby for a bite. Its a 1950’s style diner which is quite authentic looking and the food is simple and not too dear. We ended the night around 2am.

Tu/31

A leisurely breakfast and prep kind of morning was much needed for a busy day, but we finally rolled out around half 10 or 11. Took a bus down toward Trinity Church, walked around a bit, saw the statue of Molly Malone and finally sampled one of the area’s very festive donuts, we chose the Ferrer Rocher which was true to form, and then landed at The Little Museum of Dublin around 11:40am. We signed up for the last 2 positions for the 12 noon tour and looked at the free  ground and 3rd floors. The first floor was a little boring, but the 3rd had a U2 room which was interesting and a Irish Times room which was informative.

Our tour, led by Eamon, was delightful. It highlights some of the ephemera in the room, including some information that built on that we learned from the gaol tour and some which was just new and interesting. Eamon’s delivery, which included questions that weren’t always impossible, yours truly got the question that was answered by the word Guinness for example, and were often answered by the word Dublin, was charming and easy to listen to and follow. Given that the tour is only about 50 minutes helped, but it is a great tour and is highly recommended.

Afterward we went to the nearby National Gallery which is a lot larger than I expected and there was a nice spread of classic and contemporary art. We saw one room with work by children that was delightful, playful, and showed great talent and a new art exhibit showing some large format work with some that was incredibly moving. One work showed a baby with a helmet that invoked the horror and cost of war that I loved.

We went back to a store so I could buy a shirt I decided not to buy earlier. It was a red Super Dry polo that hopefully will help me jettison my blue Ben Sherman polo. We then hightailed it over to Dublin Castle for our appointed tour at 14.30.  I had hesitated when the tickets went on sale for the regular visit tickets so we had no choice but to buy a tour if we wanted to go. I hoped it wouldn’t be too painful and, luckily, like the earlier Little Museum tour, it was fast and informative. We started in the catle itself where we learned about some of the past and current uses of the space, that it was mostly a newish structure and what some of the iconography meant. We followed with a visit to the lower areas where we could see the original viking and English walls, learning that there is an underground river that runs downhill and meets the Liffey.

   

We did a pit stop at the hotel and then went to take the bus to our reservation at Grano. We decided to abandon our vegan diet to sample one from each of their four areas: Nibbles, Starters, Primi, and Secondi. We started with the Scandanduja and the Culatta e Burrata which is a warmed spread of Italian sausage served with crostini and cured ham with mozzzerella, respectively. The former was divine. After we had Fileja al Pomodor which is a special homamade pasta with tomato and basil which was perfectly cooked and flavourful. We closed with the Parmagiana di Melanzane which was also beautiful to behold and to eat. Finally, we sampled two of the desserts over coffee, a deconstructed cannolo, which was crunchy with just the right amount of sweet, and the Panna Cotta, which I didn’t really try.

 

Completely sated, but not overly full, we bused and walked over to the Dublin Zoo Wild Lights. As expected, it’s really an event for families and children, but it was fun anyway with fabric coloured lights that depicted the Wizard of Oz, Peter Pan, ALice in Wonderland, and other children’s favourites.

 

Another pitstop and a last minute dash to the river in time to see the fireworks and ring in 2020 with a large portion of Dublin and her guests. It was relatively civilized as was the exit. We went to St 66 and, as expected, it was busy, but we got on line and despite being told we wouldn’t be let in, they let us in within minutes. Fun was had including meeting  young lady who had decided to befriend and care for a young lad whose new boyfriend decided to ditch and break up with him on New Year’s Eve. Entertaining AND dramatic.

We closed the pace at 2.30am and got but a few hours sleep before our flight on Weds.

W/1

We, well I, got up around 7 although we didn’t hit breakfast until around 8.30am. That left plenty of time to finish packing and drop off some donated clothes to GoodWill. There was a false start to the bus location but when we arrived at the correct spot, the bus pulled up. It does wander around Dublin a bit before it heads to the airport so it did take the full one hour. We went to the lounge which was ok albeit with a lack of hot food save soup. I slept most of the 1.5 hour plane ride. We bought 3 day ‘Travel Tickets’ as they are per day, not hour for about 28 euro. It would have been a few cents cheaper to do a 2 day with a single one way to Schiphol, but this was easier.

We checked into the Ibis Styles Amsterdam Centraal and they gave us a room on the ground floor that overlooks an internal countryard. Odd, but ok. It’s only two nights. It could definitely be a little cleaner, but so could Amsterdam.

I mean as we traveled between the train station and hotel they were still cleaning up the piles of garbage from last night. After settling in and configuring our wifi, we ate at the nearby TerraZen Centre. The food was ok, but the place is disorganized and the food was sometimes not hot enough. We had the spring rolls which came as tow distinct types, breaded and deep fried, which were ok, and the veggie platter which was hit and miss. Finally, we went out for a bit which we will file under the heading ‘What happens in A’dam….”

H/2

Our first, and only, full day in A’Dam. It wasn’t essential but we decided to do another laundry drop. We had read some dodgy reviews about a nearby laundry so instead of searching for “Service Laundry” we searched ‘Laundry’ and came up with Sans Laundry, Korte Lijnbaanssteeg 1. It’s tiny but the women working there was super friendly and our small bag, less than one grocery shopping, was only 10 euro! AND, she offered to do it with quick service. She seemed a little confused we didn’t need it within the hour. HIGHLY recommended.

 

Next, we were supposed to start with a drive by the Anne Frank huis, but I needed to run a personal errand so I sent my mate over to the Diamond Museum which was a maybe on my list. He reports that it was worth the visit, btw. We met back up at the Rijkmuseum, ostensibly to see Night Watch, although we did a bit a walking around looking at other bits looking for it. I was a little unimpressed with the museum and Night Watch in general, although my mate seemed enamoured with it. We also saw a few Vermeers, but my overall impression is that the musee is poorly laid out and really has few wow moments.

We headed to the Handbag Museum and I clandestinely worked in a pitstop to FOAM. We started at the top in a very small room and I was begining to think we were bamboozled with the 12.50 entrance fee. Luckily on floor 2 it opens up into a huge space with multiple rooms and lots of nice work. Like most museums, not everything was a winner, but there was some really winning pieces that made it well worth. Next up was the Handbag Museum which had multiple rooms and offered a lovely history of artistry of the utile craft. There is, of course, a shop where you can buy yourself a fancy handbag at the end and the staff is very friendly and helpful.

Feeling more than a little peckish we tried Vegan Junk Food Bar near the Bloemenmarkt and Munttoren, but found it rammed and with a long line out the door, so we tried the nearby Maoz only to find it had no seats, and finally to settle on Burger Bar which had both a Portabello burger and Veggie Burger, both of which were good. Not great, but worthy..

Afterwards I did quite a bit of retail therapy on Kalverstraat, which was quite rammed with fellow holiday shoppers. Zara, Pull and Bear, Top Man, Bershka, and some Nederlands local merchants.  After some relax time we did a local bar, a Albert Heijn for kicks, and went to go to G(h)etto for the Glam Variety Show. Despite it being in the listings AND having a working website, it is closed. So, we decided on the nearby Queen’s Head right up until the drag performer/dancer came on, followed a few randier choices and scene.

F/3

Another Travel day, but early enough to allow for some events in the evening. We started with breakie at the hotel. I’d worn my rugby polo wwith a number 5 on the back and one of the attendants kept calling me #5, which was charming and funny. I dubbed him #7 for reasons that are quite unclear.  We waffled over whether to tip or not in the hotel and in the end I think we left behind some coins. I also donated a few clothing items on our way to the train station. We just missed one train but found another 2 minutes later on a nearby track so we were quickly on our way. It’s a short ride to the airport so we were soon through security and passport control.

We managed to find the 41 lounges after some walking and false directions and found the BA lounge right next to the Aspire lounge, which was how the recon had described the 26 lounges on line. We opted for the BA lounge and were glad we did. They had a few hot food offerings which oddly changed once and then back between rice and chicken curry to dumplings back to the curry while we were there. There was also a soup, some cheeses, cookies, crackers, coffee, juices, a small free bar.

 

Our flight was delayed and then not. They told us they would call the flight 15 minutes before boarding but after a 10 minute walk to the gate we found the flight mostly boarded. Luckily we had some room overhead and were blessed with a skinny guy in our row. The flight is about an hour so after a short nap we were landing. BA provides drinks and M+S snacks for purchase so we passed on that.

We caught a quick train to London Bridge, a switch to the Jubilee and Southwark station, and soon we were checking into the Ibis Styles Southwark. The lobby looks clean and modern, and we were quickly checked in via tablet at the mid room kiosk. The room was typical of the Ibis brand other than the lack of a safe and the gap at the bottom of the stylish shower doors. This would prove to not be a problem due to the slant of the floor, but it seemed odd nonetheless.

After unpacking, as much as was necessary for the remainder of our 2 days, a short rest, and we were back out the door to meet my friend Martin at the very confusing Canary Wharf. We wandered for a while downstairs before alighting and finally uniting. We ended up at _____ which like many places around town had vegan options, some especially for the Veganuary scheme. Each of our dishes was good and the service was friendly. We got done in time to catch the tube up to Soho to meet some friends at the Duke of Wellington. Upstairs, the first floor was heaving with about 8 at their table, a private party in the back room, and lots of other patrons dotted around the room. The music was provided by the drag DJ on the ground floor, where the crown was also festive and dancing. A few rounds brought us close to closing time so before the brightest lights, we moved down and out first to the Village where we said no to the 3 pound entry, then to Circa bar where we managed to move all the way in only to say no the line at the bar and crown in the small narrow space. Finally, we went to Halfway to Heaven where the downstairs was only half floor, but the music was good and the sing alongs in full swing. Toward the end of the night there was even a bit of an altercation between two friends, one almost blind drunk, slurring French at the security officer and swiping our friends coat on his way out the door. By the time, shortly after, that we realized what had happened, the guy was in handcuffs awaiting his entry to a police van and my friend would have to wait until morning to retrieve his coat.  Side note, he did successfully do so before his afternoon flight without too much added hassle. Annoyance yes, but at least no blood or vomit or some other distasteful liquid matter.

The four of us closed the night with a walk across the Golden Jubilees Bridges and finally to our respective homes.

Sa/4 (10)

Saturday brought me up to Soho for some mental rejvination, a last stop at TK Maxx to pick up a Vivienne Westwood polo and a flowery dress shirt, another to a pair of Zaras where I finally scored my black stars shirt in small, and a trip to the HSBC on Oxford to take out some American cash and pay in as UK cash. My account suitably enhanced,  I met up with my mate near Oxford Circus where we would walk to the Vivienne Westwood shop. This time I would buy a small bracelet. The clerk told me he thought it would be too small but upon trying we found it quite fitting and I was, importantly, able to put it on and take it off without assistance.

A walkabout to nearby Old Bond Street brought us to Stella McCartney, Moncler, and Alexander McQueen. The latter store was super friendly and invited us to start at the top floor for the exhibit of past work and to walk down afterward to peruse the men’s and women’s wear. I was tempted by the 250 pound long  scarf with AMcQ’s emblazoned name, but after the cost/wear calculation, I passed.

After a coffee we caught the tube over to the Design Museum and Leighton House, but not before trying the KFV, Kentucky Fried Veggie burger.  At the first museum we did the top 2 free floors, finding more than enough to look at for free without feeling the need to go to either the MARS or Designs of the Year for pay exhibits.

We walked over to the nearby Leighton House which I recalled from a visit years ago to be small but beautiful. I was pleased to see they have increased the number of spaces one can visit although the fountain room and the blue tiles are still the highlight of the show. From here we walked up through Holland Park and over to the tube where we made out way over the Grant Museum of Zoology at UCL. The Grant houses comparative examples for students and admirers to examine and draw conclusions. My interest lies in their adoption program. Many years ago, when the program started, I adopted the taxidermy Koala, which I subsequently nicknamed Cuddles. A short period later I adopted the Cuckoo for a friend who named him Cocoa. These have been in the family ever since although a brief mishap wherein Cocoa was almost lost resulted in the decision to change over to Lifetime, rather than Anual, adoptions. The anuals were fun as I would write rather silly letters suggesting I thought the adoptees where actual pupils in college or uni for whom I was paying tuitio, fees, or board. I can at least try to keep the tradition alive by announcing to all that will listen the nicknames I have for the specimens.

After our longish day, we napped a bit back at the hotel and then met up with a friend for dinner at the nearby Ristorante Olivelli. We each had something different and each was delicious. One had the steak, which instead of a slab was a few slices on a board. Not quite what was expected, but it was good. The other had the lasagne which came in a oblong dish which made it easier to eat and it was reported that it was exactly the right amount. Finally, I had the ______ which I hoped would not be too filling and it was also just right.

After dinner, we freshened up and went to Dalston and the Glory. A totally fun bar with 2 floors, 2 stages, little attitude and an up for it crowd. Much fun was add. A black female drag queen came on and did some karaoke numbers and got the crowd singing along and also, for one number, up on stage to help out. One more night of semi-debauchery later and we were home.

The next morning was packing and getting ready for our flight. Our flight was around 3 so we left around 10:30. Arrived at 12, got through the fast pass security pretty quickly, tried Club Aspire but were denied. Ended up at Plaza Premium which turned out to be nice. Decent selection of hot and cold, some really good. Weird being seated by a host but it made it easy to find somewhere to sit. No searching or trying to decide which space was best. There was no choice.

On the flight we booked the VERY last row of two on the side and it proved to be a decent choice. There was one addition row of three in the middle behind us and bathrooms with rear facing doors directly behind us. Made it feel like we weren’t in the middle of everything. The seats fully reclined, at least as much as economy seats do, which meant we could recline from the word go. No worrying about crowded the behind neighbors or whether they were eating or feeling them poke the back of our seats to select a movie. You DO NOT need to use blunt force on a touch pad. Try gentle, it works just as well. I watched two forgettable movies, but my traveling companion lost his service mid flight. AGAIN! What’s up with that. We slept and ate and it was all over.

Great memories of course. In retrospect, we probably would do 2 cities not 3, but our next trip up together is a 4 day whirlwind to Barcelona. Stay tuned.

 

 

Wed/15

My main objectives for my January trip to Paris was to see the Leonardo show at the Louvre and to take part in the biannual soldes. Only one of these came to fruition.

I had, as I do, applied for an upgrade to my flight, hoping to catch some quality zzzs and arrive relaxed and refreshed. As the days moved forward my hopes looked less and less likely as I was 17th on a list for only 13 seats. At check in time, I was offered the seat for purchase but at $1000, it was a bit too dear for a good night’s sleep. Forgoing that, my flight went well and quickly. I slept for an hour here and an hour or so there. Watched a few movies, but sadly can’t remember what they were.

I also started to come down with a cold the day before so I started a regime of Dayquil and Nyquil that I kept up through the whole trip.  I didn’t love the way it made me feel a little off, but I did appreciate not having to blow my nose every five seconds.

Thur/16

We arrived a little early and passport control was a little hectic. There’s no distinct lines and it makes it a very unpleasant welcome for visitors. I was clearly on the wrong line, as it was slow and unmoving, but even with that I was through in about 40 minutes.

I took my passport pictures as soon as I saw a machine and headed to the nearby ticket window. I purchased a new Navigo Decouverte since I have lost, or misplaced the one I bought last trip. At the moment it loads for a week at a time, Monday through Sunday, and is great for just a tap and go experience in the Metro and on the bus. Definitely beats using a carnet of 10 one-use tickets or even the day, or multi-day, Mobilis paper tickets.  Having completed the task of getting the Navigo and loading it up for one week, I also bought a one-way ticket back to the airport to use on Monday.

An RER B arrived shortly after and whisked me toward the centre. I took it to Gare du Nord without incident but when I went to transfer to the 4 I was met with some crowd control. This meant being corralled until the platform was empty, then being let in, and waiting for a train or two to go by before I could get on. I transferred at Strasbourg-St Denis for the 9 and took that to Grands Boulevards. The entrance is literally right outside the door to the Holiday Inn Opera-GrandBoulevards. The entrance is small but has some modern furniture and seems secure. The staff was helpful and pleasant and I was offered, and accepted, breakfast for the reduced price of 15 euros. I also dropped my bag, as it was still only around 11am and too early for check in, so I could hit the streets.

First up was another metro two stops further down the street to the Gallerie Haussman, Gallerie Lafayette, and Printemps. These high end shopping centers are like your typical department stores here in the states. Small branded shops ring the store which seemed to go on forever in each of the three venues. Sadly, I wasn’t able to find anything I loved for a price I was willing to pay in any of them. There was a lovely $600 jumper that I would have adored but once I applied the wear to cost ratio, I had to walk away.

After a visit to the American Cathedral, I visited my favourite soldes destination: Kenzo. To be honest, there’s a LOT I wouldn’t wear at Kenzo, too loud prints, large logos, but I have been for each of the prior two years, Jan and July and always walk out with a great item, sometimes its been a dress shirt and others a lovely patterned jumper. This year I scored not one, but two, shirts. I just couldn’t decide between the two and they are both lovely. And blue. Which I said was a palette I wasn’t going for, but the browns are often in slim supply. The salespeople here are friendly, never snobish, always honest, and helpful.

My google maps pointed me toward L’italien where i enjoyed a delicious plate of penne all’arbiata before attacking the Champs Elyssee: Celio, H+M, Zara, Zadig and Voltaire, etc. I bought a nice shirt at Zara, another at Celio, and then feeling a little top-heavy got a pair of dark red plaid trousers at H+M. Feeling more than a little shopped out, and I was only just getting started, I decided to take a break and go and check in.

At the hotel, I made my way up and down to the end of a long hallway to my superior room on the 3rd floor. I love rooms on the end as they have fewer shared walls and tend to be quieter and a bit farther away from the elevators. For a small or medium hotel, this is a great way to go; for a larger hotel I actually prefer something closer, but not next to, the elevators or stairs. I also prefer a lower floor, so as to utilize the stairs if necessary. This is extremely helpful in cases where the elevators are slow or extremely busy. My room started with a long entry way with a large room and the bathroom buffering the room next door.

I was meeting some friends for a quick coffee in the St Pauls area so I metroed over to Bastille and walked from there. Afterward, I realized I could either take one of the last metros of the evening, or walk home. I decided on the later. Including a stroll through my beloved Marais, and then Sentier , where I settled in for dinner at Kapunka Vegan. I had an awesome curry and some great conversation with the waiter (owner?). The place is quite cozy with a row of tables on one side and a bar with stool seating on the other. It’s on a quiet street and is a great place for a nice meal. 

   Sated and content, I continued my short journey back to the hotel where I completed my packing save the items needed for the morning.

 

Fri/ 17

I set an alarm but woke up before it went off. Had a shower and shave and went down for breakfast, stopping to see if I could get a late check out thinking I would come back after the museum. Thinking that plan over breakfast I realized I wanted to continue on from the Louvre so I went back and finished bringing my bags down to the surprised desk staff who checked. The minutes ticking away to my 9am ticket for the Leonardo show, as I’m waiting for them to check my bags, I’m trying to figure out the best way to get to the Louvre, which turns out to be walking, and which turned out to be about 25 minutes away.

While power walking, trying not to sweat, and frittering about being late, I tried to remain cool and let whatever happened happen. Since I hadn’t read my ticket closely, like a normal person would who knows the French can be quite particular and specific, I went through the underground Caroussel entrance hoping for both a shorter line and fewer rain drops, although at worst it was misty. I was met with two long line snaking in two different directions and I chose to go to the front and see what I could find out. I saw gates down, a group with flags waving, and not much happening.

 

When I asked I was told there was no one inside, that there was a strike, that they may, or may not, open later, and that my tickets may, or may not, be honoured tomorrow. I could also request a refund.  I definitely didn’t wait around for MAD to open at 11 so I decided to do what any normal person would do. Go shopping. At Bon Marche. Walking up and out, I googled that the best routs was a bus leaving from the southern side of the museum, where I encountered a semi-handicapped woman getting out of a car. I informed her about what I knew but she opted to go look for herself and wave her car away. I did my duty.

At Le Bon Marche I bought a lovely, creamy, mustardy brown wool jumper for $75 and a super-soft white A-shirt for $15! One bargain, one not so much. I looked at a lot of the other spaces on the floor, but didn’t find anything I loved. The jumper salesperson had told me I could ask for the tax information upstairs, but when I went up there I was told there was a minimum and I would need my actual passport, not just a copy. He was pretty rude, and not because he was French. My experience is that most people are pretty nice and helpful as long as you at least try to speak some french, but also try to blend in with the french laid back, more polite and ruled rules of culture. Like I said most. This guy was a dick, but the majority of people I met and interacted with at Bon Marche were great so they win.

I wandered in and out of several other stores nearby, mostly too expensive, including one with a gorgeous mohair blanket in the window that turned out about $200+, which, for the record, I did not buy. A short walk and I took the 63 bus back to Kenzo for their tax papers, which I knew I could procure with either a pic or a photocopy of my passport. As they informed me, they only needed the information; the people at the airport would do the actual confirmation.

I decided to Metro back to to my hotel area, but I got off one stop early and walked. Not too much along the short walk to the next stop, but I found a Hema and bought a little stuffed rabbit, to be my mascot, and a cool printed pillow case covered in bugs on a pink background. I also stopped at the excellent PH7 Equilibre in the 9th where I had a samper plate that had both hot and cold foods. It may be small and look unpresuming, but the flavour was magnificent. I especially loved the beetroots with sauteed sesame seeds, balsamic, and tumeric. WOW. I also enjoyed the fruit juice mix with ginger. So refreshing.

When I reached them, I explored both les Passages des Jouffrey and Panoramas. The latter is mostly restos and cafes while the former is more shops and there is also the Hotel Chopin at the end of the first turn. It must be fun to ring in at night and walk along the deserted passage to return to the hotel! on the street the end of  Jouffrey is a kilo shop that also has some priced items. Inside I browsed a lot of almost items but settled only on a medium brown round hat.

   

Stopped in some stores along the way but only looked. Bought some curtains and a dog toy from the random 5+1- type store next door to the hotel. Got yelled at for walking out from the lady at the front cash register after paying for the goods with the man at the register at the top of the stairs. Nice to feel like a local. And be mistaken for a petty thief.

I picked up my bags from the hotel, consolidated my few purchases inside, and took the 8 to the 4 and despite all the stairs did pretty well. Luckily, a lot of the weight was in the backpack this time so lifting the suitcase was easy. It also wasn’t too hot or too cold so I arrived to check in at Hotel du Cygne in good spirits. A familiar face was at the front desk and since I’d stayed there many times over the years, check in was simple and quick.

I dropped my bags on the 2nd etage room number 211 and then did a walkabout and some power shopping.  Diesel, Zadig, American Vintage, and a few others. Mostly browsed, but I  brought a lovely, rust-coloured, wool-blend jumper with a long body and arms. I also procured some baked goods at De Belles Maniers: a small Gallette and a Paris Brest. Back at the hotel, the gallette was good but sadly the smalls didn’t have la feve.

Yum.

Met some friends at a studio in the Marais for some great conversation and then walked around looking for trouble. A little was found, but now I am regrouping for round two.

Sa/18

Woke up several times during the night, but couldn’t tell what time it was. Even when I did get up around 7 or 8 the sun wasn’t up. My least favourite part of winter. I had always thought it was the sun that woke me, and perhaps it does have the ability, but I wake up at the end of my sleep cycles, 15mins, 1 hour, 3 hours, 5, and 7. Five being the magic answer. A relaxing start to the day with some juice and cakey things, specifically the Paris Brest I bought the night before, and finally got out the door around 10 or so.

I stopped at a coffee place, not so much for the caffeine as for efficiency and the volume of caffeine, and was finished before I made it to the door. Walked down to BVH and misread the signs, even thought I KNEW menswear was across the street and wandered around the basement hardware section for a few minutes trying to figure out how to get out only to wait for a painfully slow elevator to take me up the one floor.

Finally entering the hallowing shopping mecca, I moved fairly quickly through the expensive lower floor to the more moderately priced first and second etages. I bought a white shirt covered in french newsprint clippings from Sandro and although I then searched for some trousers to complete the outfit, I left without.

Next I visited Coton Doux on Rue de la Verrerie where I picked out three shirts that would do, and would satisfy the 3 for 130 euro sale, but a shirt I really wanted was not available in my size or style. I did get to try on some samples of both the 38 and 39 and found that the 38 was indeed the best fit. Perhaps, as the clerk at Kenzo cautioned, I could wash them in a machine, but I should never even dry them in one. Perhaps this was true of Coton Doux shirts as well. The store clerk called over to an other store nearby and directed me there. I was impressed he didn’t try to make sure i made the sale in his store, but this is Paris, not New York. At the Rue de Rivoli branch I selected the red poppies  (coquelicots), a blue paint splatter, and a white shirt with red and black numbers, the first being the shirt I wanted even before I left New York, and the latter being the shirt that begat the phone call and the trip to this branch. She also told me to try the splatter one with just black everything else, pants, shoes, etc. Appreciated the fashion tip.

I stopped into Anatomica, where I was told to not look at the ugly shoes, but to continue on into the back of the store. I was, sadly, not impressed, although with the preview perhaps I was expecting too much. I wandered up Rue des Archives past store after store of wholesale jewelry, vente en gros, hoping to find one that would be retail, but alas no. A little cold, tired, and in need of a wee, I stopped into Sainte Elisabeth de Hongrie, where I knew where to go from a previous visit there.

This is NOT the la toillette.

After a consultation with the Googles, I tried lunch at Hanks Pizza. Having tried the burger, I had an inkling of what to expect, although I prayed for a not so busy with available seating pizza version, and was pleased to find my prayers answered. I had one spinach and one impossible slices with a ginger beverage and sat upstairs in a corner. Next to me were some Welsh tourists, a husband, wife, and youngish daughter looking at maps and developing a plan of attack and ended up giving them advise on the nearby thrift stores.

By accident or purpose, I ended up in Hippy Market, first on Rue du Temple and then on Rue Rambuteau/Boulevard de Sebastopol. All I can say is that it got expensive! Some of the vintage used clothes were as expensive as some of the new pieces I’d already bought and some things were even more expensive. The rack of furs, where I found my brown pocketsless a year ago for a steal, was populated with those $100 and up and moreso there was a proliferation of fauxs that felt faker than a cheap Woolworth rug. One would think I would be estatic I didn’t come home with yet another closet clogging coat.

After so much power shopping, I needed a nice late afternoon 3 pm nap, being mindful of the 6pm Museum ticket I bought for the Bacon show. I woke up around 5 and somehow decided I had enough time for a 2nd neighborhood wander so I went to episode, where I bought a brown print shirt for 10 euro, dropped it off and made it to Pompidiou just in time.

At first the line upstairs was  really long, but it moved quickly. I was pleasantly surprised when the inside wasn’t overstuffed with humanity and I was able to see and enjoy the work. I moved through the exhibit quickly but not rushed. There was a lot of work and although it got a little samey, I enjoyed it immensely. As I came out, there is a gift shop straight ahead and another exhibit just to the right. At first it doesn’t look overly inviting, but I am glad I asked if entrance was included with the Bacon, since it turned out it was. Inside was a great journey through photographs and prints that went on for as long as the Bacon exhibit. Really great pairing and I felt completely sated with no need to visit the other floor.

   

 

So instead I went out and did a bar crawl of sorts. Several hours later I went home for some much need sleep with nowhere pressing to go the next morning.

 

Su/19

Slept IN! Woke up at 10:30 to a gaggle of girls outside cackling. Was a little disappointed to have lost some hours on the ground, but I got over it quickly. Prepared my clothes for donation and dropped them off. Dressed way to warm for my trip to Les Halles, the low hanging fruit. I went to all the usual suspects, Berksha, Pull and Bear, Celio, Devred, and even H+M, Zara, and Monoprix. You never know. Picked up a pair of plaid trousers at Zara and a pair of hot jeans at Devred.

Dropped off those things and went for a wander to the north to lok for something to eat. Stopped in Monoprix to look for some cold medecine and got some vitiman C, before walking to a nearby pharmacy to get actual cold medicine.

I took the Metro back down to Etienne Marcel, since i could and I was getting cold, and then walked over to Janine loves Sunday, only to find that she ready does not like Sunday. They serve an abbreviated menu on sunday and, sadly, it was one hit and one miss. The samosas, while tasty, were greasy and bland. The coconut soup, however, was excellent.

Walked back to the Marais and bought a galette for le reve inside. And, then went back to the hotel and ate it until I found it. I started in the center and worked my way out, hoping it wouldn’t be near the outer edge. I ate about half, but I basically bought a small porceline penguin for 16,95. LOL.

I washed up for the evening, deciding to forego a last meetup and made the rounds. Much fun was had of course. I am the KING afterall.

Back at the hotel I paid my tax for the room, and finished the preliminary packing. Have everything I need for the morning and space to put everything that is still out. Kind of having a hard time believing it all fit so easily. Disappointed to find out I can’t find my metro ticket for the train tomorrow. My Navigo ends today so I had bought the ticket along with that and put it in a ‘safe place’. Either it wasn’t that safe, or I’ll use it next time when, and if, I find it when I unpack. Also realizing I need to leave earlier if I hope to utilize the tax back scheme. Hopefully, it won’t be a shit show. I lucked out in London; maybe I’ll have the same luck here.

 

M/20

I woke up to the second alarm I set, for 5:30am. Not sure what happened to the 5:15p. Had a quick shower and dressed and put the final remaining items into my bag. Got out and down the stairs at 6, and to the train in time, but was delayed by a card that wouldn’t work in the machine. I ended up using cash after 3 tries and receiving an unwanted 9,70 in euro coin and arriving to the platform just in time to see the train depart. Fortunately, there was another 10 minutes later, although it put a little doubt into my tax refund dream.

When I arrived at CDG I changed trains and at Terminal 1 I went upstairs to check in. I then came back downstairs to get my stamp and refund. The office and process could be a little clearer, but now that I know how it works, it seems fairly straightforward. The workers there were nice as well, even when I had a mini-meltdown at the customs stamp machine. I passed through passport control and went to the club even though I only had a short time to visit. Enjoyed some light breakfast and coffee and arrived through security will more than enough time for the flight. Was regaled by two loud Americans having a conversation between their positions on the lines for group 1 and group 2 while the Parisiens cringed and eavesdropped on a family swearing never to come to Paris again because they hater the “hurry up and wait” aspect of CDG. Do I really want to go back home? I adore you Paris. Can’t wait to come back! Especially if people like ‘that’ are staying away! Je vous aime.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reykjavik happened for two reasons. I had gone the year before, had a blast, and subsequently lost all my photos and videos and There was an Iceland Air sale.  Fortunately the sale happened early because hotels can be expensive and sell out in advance. I managed to score a double with shared bath at Hostel Village. I’d stayed there before and was hoping for the main building where they served breakfast, but we got the building 2 doors down and found out there was no breakfast. Not a problem really as there was a kitchen. But I’m getting a little ahead of myself.

We landed at 6:15am and made our way to the Orange center where we’d booked our car (at a good price too). Our first order of business was the Blue Lagoon which we had also booked far in advance. Rather than be late, we booked for 10am, but got there by 8:45. They made us wait. So we sat and had  a coffee. We checked in and despite it being freezing, at least it wasn’t raining.

The Blue Lagoon is lovely and a must do, but I don’t know if one need to go more than once. Once is probably enough. We spent a couple hours there, and then turned back to the road to see some local sites. There’s a road that rings the lower peninsula below the airport (that includes the road to Blue Lagoon) so we drove along that before heading to Reykjavik. Along the way are three cool sites.

Brimketill is a cool landscape by the ocean with wicked waves. There’s a story about Oddny, that’s a little too long to share here, that you should look up to bring life to it. Next was Gunnuhver which is a series of natural hot pools that shows the natural landscape, NO swimming.  This one has folklore about someone named Gunna that is both dark and disturbing.

Finally there’s the Bridge between two continents. There’s some cool black lava along the way to the city. I do recommend sticking to the speed limit, although the desire will be to speed. There’s unseen cameras along the way that send tickets to speeders so be forewarned. Obey the LAW! I did NOT learn this the hard way, btw.

We checked in and then ate in the Hlemmur food hall. There’s a few options with different types of food. We sampled from two or three stalls and shared. Afterward we did some food shopping at the nearby 10/11 (a grocery store open from (roughly) 10 to 11. We did a little drive and walk-about in the center, bought the City Card for 72 hours and ended the evening at the Sundhollin Pool practically across the street from the hostel. They have an indoor lap pool and two outdoor sitting pools. They also have a dry and wet sauna. Nice place despite being one of the older pools.

The next morning we got up around 9, in the dark, had breakfast and started with the Kjarvalsstadir Art Museum, Flokgata 1600. This one is in a nice building and has two sections with different exhibits. There’s a nice cafe which seemed like the destination for some of the locals. Next we set out for some museums in the center. We started with the Whales of Iceland, which is NOT on the card, but is worth a visit. You could easily spend an hour here and maybe more, if you really want to learn about whales.  There’s a shop, it sells sweaters. They are EVERYWHERE.

Next was SAGA, also not on the card, which is little more than a set of dioramas and wax figures. There is a dress up and photo area and there is an audio guide to give more details about the exhibit. We enjoyed it for a little bit, but we did get bored.  Next up was the Hafnarhus art museum (there are 3) on Tryggvagata. There’s a bunch of different galleries with rotating exhibits so it can be hit or miss, a cafe, and a shop. The building is also fun as it was an old warehouse. Right next door is the Museum of Photo which is located on an upper floor of the library. Take the elevator up and walk down, there’s more photos on the way down. The exhibit also changes, but do make note of the lack of smile in the Icelandic photos. It’s a thing. Next up was lunch and we ended up at Shalimar for Pakistani food. The food and service was outstanding. As was the price. HIGHLY recommended.

We ended the day with another pool, this time the Vestrbaejarlaug, a little southwest of city center. This one is definitely more suburban and quieter. We were the only ones who  brought our towels out to the pool. And the only ones walked fast between being indoors and being in the water. There’s also a sauna. This one wasn’t my favourite, but it did have a nice big outdoor pool.

We had every intention of going out that night, but sadly, it just didn’t happen. We did get a good night sleep so we could have a good, full, next day.

There’s a whole slew of museums near the center. They include the small and quick Settlement Exhibit, Adalstraeti 16, the National museum of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegur 7, and the National Gallery of Iseland, Sudurgata 41. The latter is the largest and is kind of a history of Iceland.  In addition to looking at it in a traditional way, they also had an alternate narrative that looked at one concept through the lens of roughly 20 of the exhibits. Since it narrowed what we would be looking at, we tried it and enjoyed the way it interwove the pieces. Finally, since we had a little extra time, we went to Ásmundarsafn, Sigtún 1600, and the nearby Laugardalslaug pool. The latter museum is a single artist and his house/studio. Some cool and very different stuff through the arc of his career. The pool was newer and had a nice hot pool, in addition to a large pool with slide that would probably be awesome in the summer. There is a very hot steam sauna. We didn’t stay too long in there. 

On our last day we went to the Phallogical Museum which is a very odd and very dry take on penises of the world. Afterward we went to the church, where there was some cool organ music,  and then the Einar Jonsson Museum across the street. There’s some interesting art and history here in addition to the apartment upstairs.

We also went to the Maritime Museum, while kooky, was somewhat interactive. They had opportunities to wear some props and            we got some good photo ops.

That night we started with the bonfire at Geirsnef. Totally huge and totally fun.  They start more or less on time, but people arrived sort of right when it started. It was cold, but of course, fire is hot. We took a little break for food and headed up to the top of the hill for the fireworks. It’s almost impossible to describe the pandemonium up there, although it was a little more ordered than the year before. Basically, they have a cordoned off area where people bring boxes of fireworks to blow off for the crowd. Some go up. Some come back down. Some go sideways into the crowd. Amazingly good fun. Afterward a lot of people pile down the hill and end up at any one of the bars in town. No raucous shouting or vomiting in the streets, just good fun.

The next morning was a quiet morning by the piers and along the water.

Very contemplative and a nice counterpoint to the evening before. A lovely way to end the trip before leaving for the airport and the ride back home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the airport in Siem Reap on my way to Hanoi, I had to reprint my boarding pass and on the sly weighed both my bags. I cam in at 9kg for the suitcase and about 4 for the backpack. Slightly over the total of 12 for both bags, but she didn’t notice so I got a pass. Inside I visited the Plaza Premium lounge and had plenty of options for both hot and cold food. I opted for some vegetables with rice and curry sauce, some coffee and a piece of banana bread. The plane left more or less and time and at 1 hour 20 was uneventful. Vietnam Air serves a small meal on this flight too, but I opted out. Found a row in the back where I laid out for about 10 minutes too.

As soon as we landed I checked the interweb for information about taxis and read that  they cheat. A lot. Most people, I learned use Uber or Grab. I looked at my Uber and it said it didn’t operate there so I started to download Grab. AN hour, it said. As I deplaned, I connected to the airport wifi and found it finished loading within a minute so I was in good shape for whatever happened.

After arrival in the main hall, I sorted out the visa thing. I passed the place where you can get photos in airport along the way. There’s two lines for the visa, one to APPLY and one to PAY. A lttle confusing, but I needed the Apply line. It moved fairly quick and I had all the right parts. Next you wait to be called and I waited less than 10 minutes. I do recommend you pay in exact change. I paid $30 and while I expected a $5 bill in exchange I got 10.000 dong instead ($4.31).  Note to self #1.

Passport control and Customs were a breeze and after passing through I used one of the many ATMS on the left to get some local currency. 2.500.000 VND, about $100 worth, which thankfully came in the form of 5 500.000 notes.

Outside I was directed to the area for the NASCO buses and was was harrassed by taxi touts along the short walk there. Very persistent. Note to self #2.

I was shown to a small van and told it would take me directly to my hotel and that it was leaving now. I pointed to my itinerary and asked if this was the 40.000 VMD bus. No this is the $12 bus, it goes directly to your hotel. Hmmm, let me think. I waited outside the van and noted that clearly it a) was clearly waiting for more passengers and b) there was something a little off. Not seeing any other option, I thought maybe this would be ok. Roll with it. He took my bag and put it in the bag then had me sit up front. After a few minutes trying to get more passengers he came back and wanted me to pay. I got out and said “No, this just doesn’t feel right.” He brought me my bag and just then a bus rolled up. Another guy said this was the bus to the Old Quarter and was the 40.000 VND bus so I got on.

We left almost immediately, the van still parked behind us. It being almost 8pm, there wasn’t a lot fo traffic so we were in town in less than 30 minutes. That’s when things slowed down a bit and we made frequent stops along the way to let people out. We seemed to be on a direct line toward where I wanted to go so I didn’t think much of it, when the bus took a right turn. I asked a nearby passenger first if he spoke English, yes,  and if this bus went to the Old Quarter. NO, he replied, but it was nearing it’s final stop. Patiently, and then less so, I watched as the bus kept driving, 10, then 20 blocks, before turning again and finally coming to a stop. I was now 25 minutes from my hotel, as opposed to 7, at least according to the Googles.

ON the street I was BOMBARDED my taxi and moto touts. Very annoying as I tried to contemplate my next move. I decided I got away from the touts, first, by crossing the street. I figured I would walk a little just to have a look and then maybe grab a Grab. When I did try, I found it wanted to pick me up either across the street or somewhere else. A little frustrated and not at all tired, I decided to walk. I had a 15 pound small suitcase sized backpack on my back and a 5 pound smaller nylon backpack on the front. Very mobile. I decided to walk. It was a lovely and there were plenty of sights to see from the types of stores, to people dining on small chairs and tables on the street over hibachis filled with a mix of meats and vegetables all creating a tantalizing array of odours and aromas, to people just walkng about and enjoying their evening promeades.

As I neared the hotel, the roads go a little narrower, but even then I didn’t note the sidewalks jammed with motorbikes pushing me into the street and on-coming traffic. While that did happen once or twice, it was the exception, not the rule. The hotel looked delightful, well lit, and up a majestic flight of stairs. Check in proved simple and I was shown to my 6th floor room. Almost as large as my Siem Reap room with a queen size bed, a sitting area and a bathroom with an oval tub/shower. The wardrobe also had two regular hangers with two robes and then several more of the less useful for shirts type with clips along the bottom. I rearranged that situation and unpacked just the one half of my bag I had arranged for Hanoi. The other half was packed in Siem Reap intentionall to remain packed until I needed to go to Hong Kong. This included, for anyone interested, the shirts I bought in Cambodia and the heavier items I wouldn’t need until back in New York and the items I would be wearing to, and changing into for, the flight.

I unpacked the S items I would be jettisoning after this leg: several shirts, socks, smalls, and one pair of sandals. I went back out for a short walk about to see the local area and to find a store for some water and perhaps a sweet. It neared up on 11 and I began to notice my lethargy, so I went back to the room to prepare for the next day, wanting a good early(ish) start.

And, boy, an early start it was. I woke up before dawn and had some coffee and planned out my day in more detail. Double checked opening hours, distances, and mapped out a route with the least backtracking. Had breakfast upstairs and while the spread wasn’t half as good as Siem Reap, it was adequate and filling. Lots of dubious offerings I simply ignored, but enough fruit and carbs and caffiene to get a good start.

I took a Grab Bike over to my first stop, the Ho CHi Mihn Mausoleum, for all of $1.55.  After almost walking off with the helmet, I took the long walk to the mausoleum. It’s a bit far from the entrance for either dramatic effect or to handle the crowds during perhaps a busier season. After a breif pause to allow some dignitaries cut into line, we shuffled in, up, and past, the preserved and lifeless body of Vietnam’s saviour and liberator.  Reminded me a lot of Lenin’s tomb in Moscow’s Red Square of course and offered the same disbeleif that someone’s body could be kept for such a long period of time without decay. Nonetheless, I followed the visit with Ho Chi Mihn’s stilt house and then the museum. The house, and complex, offered an interesting view into the period style during Ho’s lifetime and an interesting connection to Moscow which I was naively unaware. The museum, while small, offered some interesting things to see including some pieces of art that were thought provoking and unexpected. I was also treated to a group of about 20 school boys in thier late teens moving through part of the exhibit at the same pace as I and we seemed mutually interested in each other’s beings.

Feeling a bit Ho Chi Mihn’ed out, I walked over to the Temple of Literature. Not sure what to expect, and at first I thought it might just be gardens with a few structures. INside it seemed to just keep opening up to more and more stuctures. They also seem to have just had a big party there and they were taking down all the lights and stages. It was definitely worth stopping in to see, especially as entry was only a little over a dollar.

Next I walked over to the Thang Long Imperial Citadel and while I suppose it has immense historical importance, I found it a little short on impress. I wandered the full ground anyway, hoping something would whelm me, but no. It was ok, worth visiting, just not a WOW!

I stopped for what was perhaps the most bitter and awful espresso of my life and I will spare them the embarrassment of naming names before heading out to the Tran Quoc Pagoda. When I finally arrived the doors were shut, but I assumed perhaps this was just for lunch. I wandered a bit farther afield looking for somewhere hospitible but landed on Paris Baguette. Not really what I wanted, but it would have to do. There was really no where around that offered better. Before heading back, I tried the pagoda again and it was open. I had a venture inside, was treated to more or less what was expected, and got another Grab Bike to bring me back to the hotel.

After a quick turnaround I went to the Train Street, Tran Phu, for what I had hoped would be a 3:30 train passage. Alas no, after 7pm, I was told. I also read and was told that they have closed off the street to tourists so I’d have to watch from the cross street, but when I did come back later I was able to enter and sit at one of the many street side cafes. I watched one train go by with 2 women from the states and stayed on for anothe train which came through about 10 minutes later. Got some good footage and photos. Did some walking, window shopping, and managed to make it all the way to the late night hour of 11pm.

Another super early morning rise, breakfast and out the door by 9am. First stop was the Ho CHi MIhn Memorial house which was heavy on pictures and words and I didn’t stay long. Maybe I should have read up on Ho CHi Mihn beforehand. I tried for the Back Ma Temple, but it was closed. That was disappointing because I was expecting that to be the days hignlight. Last for the morning was the DOng Xuan Market, which large and interesting seemed mostly for retail. I enjoyed looking at the fabrics and different product areas, mushrooms, plastic bags, clothes, junk jewelry, etc. I stayed about 45 minutes in the narrow and busy aisles, fantasizing about work there, and impressed with the general go get ’em work attitude. I realized I could probably still do a walking tour if I could find one so I set to work on that. Found one place but they had no openings for today. Found another, GuruWalk, that had an opening so I made a reservation request that was accepted and I went back to the hotel for a nap.

When I got up, I used the hotel stationary to write a letter to my mom, wondering both to myself and in pen, whether she’d gotten the one I wrote her from my trip to Istanbul. I was a bit dubious about that one as the hotel desk man didn’t seem to know what mail was. Just as I was heading to the Post Office, both to meet the tour and to post my letter, I got an email from GuruWalk that my tour had been cancelled. It was unclear whether the tour was cancelled or just my place. Either way, the late notice was both frustrating and unprofessional. Oh well.

The Post Office is really just a small shop that sells stamps and takes letter. Good for me; there was no line or waiting. After I had another coffee, albeit a more delicious and drinkable one this time, and found the location to pick up the bus to th airport tomorrow. I had considered a GrabCar, but if the bus was there, why not. It leaves every hour, on the hour and costs all of 40,000VND. Back at the hotel I stopped down stairs into the SIlk Queen Massage and had a nice neck and foot massage.

FInally, quite relaxed but famished I went to Tung’s Kitchen nearby. There I had both a delicious Vegetable curry and Stir-fried morning glory with garlic. YUM! All for about $8. And that rbings me back to some packing and sorting and dutifully reporting my travels. Looking forward to tomorrow’s trip to Hong Kong. HOping for no disruptions, but we’ll roll with it if there are.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As it turned out my gate for my flight to Siem Reap was quite near the Oman Air club I had just left. I was still a bit early so I settled in and read some news and emails. At one point a large group of teens on a tour piled through the gate in what seemed it might be trouble, but they were otherwise well-behaved and contained. The Thai SMile flight boarded late but without incident, any semblance of boarding priority except those with special needs, nor the dreaded weighing of the bags. This may be a function of at the desk check in I suppose. Either way I was ready and glad for the attention to light wieght restrictions. This was my first time trying my Amazon Basics carry on bag-size backpack. No wheels. Kind of liking it. Especially being that it weighs around 7kg/15 pounds at the mome.

The flights also left a bit late, but like most flights these days was scheduled for longer than the actually flight time.

We arrived only a bit later than expected and I had wished I paid a bit more attention to the details bout visas. Apparently one can apply and recieve on line. The process at the airport is a bit more convuluted and frustrating. I was asked to pay $35, not in Cambodian money btw, leave my passport and form, and wait while they processed all the requests together. Fortunately the plane was small-ish, so it took all of 15 minutes. Next, a bit annoyed but trying to shake the cultural difference and expectations, I found my hotel driver was not there as expected. I phoned and they apologized and sent someone to acquire me straight away. I used the time to refocus my energies, albeit after a short, but contained snit of “I’m going to hate this tourist town whinging”, and spoke to a few locals and started to enjoy the 90 degree temps. Within a short time my driver arrived and we were on the short ride to my hotel, The Mony Reach.

The checkin process happens in a lovely part of the lobby, as opposed to at the front desk, as I sipped a refreshing fruit drink and nibbled a spoonful og sticky rice with mango. I also asked reception to call Khmer Ceramics to see if I could book a 2pm appointment and get a ride back as I intended to walk there. Khymer will provide pick up and return if you require. Given the proliferation of cheap motorbike and tuk-tuk transport, the locals seem to think its quite far to walk. In reality, it’s a 30 minute slow stroll.

I was shown to my room, number 212! It is in the corner of the hotel so has lots of windows and is quite spacious. There’s also a small balcony, with an ashtray should one need to smoke.

Being that I wil be here for a little over 3 days and change, I unpacked and settled in. Three days, btw, seems to be the hurdle for moi to choose between to live out of bag and  unpacking.   After a bit more fussing in the room, and reading fo the required room info, I went to the front desk. I tried, failingly, to get an idea of what a tuk-tuk might charge. It depends. Clearly, the answer is on what I am willing to part with or be gouged by. I asked about spa service prices and scheduling, room cleaning needs, or the lack thereof, and asked for the alcohol to be removed from the room. For the later, it’s not so much that it bother me, but it does free up some fridge space and also sees how well the hotel handles minor special requests. Right then a large group arrived so I left the desk attendant, Seth, to his other duties and went out in the hot Cambodian sun.

Immediately realizing I might need sunscreen sooner rather than later, I was also glad to find lots of trees and shade along the streets. I headed due due east toward the Wooden Watermill Wheel. The riverside attraction was not visible and I looked it up to realize it was a museum. Which I skipped. I then headed north along the river scoping the area out for food, laundries, stores. There’s a bit of both but mostly tshirts and such on offer which, fortunately, doesn’t enthrall me. After 20 or 30 minutes, I arrived at Peace cafe where  stopped for lunch. I had the vegetable samosas and a curry along with a ginger and juice concoction and a big bottle of water.

The site also does meditiation and yoga although it was difficult to understand the schedule. They have a few set classes each day, but I guess the teacher amends what’s on offer depending on who is there. Might be odd if one wants Hatha Yoga versus those in need of the abhorent, American, Aerobic Style. The food was filling and sating, the curry being especially flavourful and rice particularly sticky. The samosas where a bit greasy for my liking, but I ate them all anyway.

I looked around there store which is made up of arts from local artisans and those taught new trade by the Cafe. There’s textiles and pottery, earrings, although I settled on a pair of simple hand-made chopsticks.

Next I made my way to the Khymer Ceramcs and although I was a bit early I was the only paritcipant so we started my class early. The potter’s wheels are manual so it was more than challenging to focus on both feet and hands. My teacher was a young woman who was both deaf and mute. I initially had an interpreter for the initial how-to stage, but then we were on our own. We made 3 pieces together and then the idea was to make 2 on my own, and then to choose (at least) one, ostensibly one of my own creations, to fire and glaze. The clay was a bit difficult for me to work and by the time we got the the final 2, my teacher had to operate the wheel while I tried to focus on centering and working my pots. Sadly, I needed help both times although the last piece turned out delightfully irregular enough to call me own creation. Sadly during the decoration phase I forgot to ass the two chopstick holes I had envisioned, although I did add 3 swirls, intermediate marks, and a star in the bottom. I felt both a bit dejected by my lack of pur success and proud of having worked through my fear of trying something new(ish) and of failure.

After its celedon glaze, I expect it will look more lovely and I will have to pick it up sometime after 4pm today, a bit annoyingly actually as it isn’t right next door.  But I have both later today and, more likely, all day tomorrow, to do so. Perhaps I will conjoin it with a yoga session at Peace cafe, or at least a walk down the other bank of the river or somewhere new more inside town.

One never knows who or what one will find when one allows oneself to wander.

We were done around 3pm, a good 45 minutes shy of our allotted 2 hours, and I got the short ride home via motorbike in a small pink helmet. A bit knackered, I had a nice shower and expected to take an hour long nap and then have another wander. I set my alarm, just in case for 1 hour 15, which I managed to sleep through until dark.

I woke around 7pm, not completely disapointed, having slept a much-needed 3 hour session giving my on-again off-again sleep cycle in between and on flights the night before. I got up and took a walk, partially to put my eyes on the Lost Socks Cafe (and self-laundry) and to have a look at the neighb. I stopped into a night market and didn’t see much to enthrall me save some unpriced jewelry that I chose not to haggle over. I should mention, I DETEST haggling. I much prefer a pricetag or to either accept or reject a price on the first, or second, go. This back and forth over pennies with someone who probably needs the cash more than I seems both petty and inhumane. If I can afford a bauble keepsake at $5, I don’t need to deny you $2 or $3 of that in order to ‘win’ at shopping. It is simply not on my list of fun things to do. If it is on yours, I certainly take no moral high ground. I have my fair share of fallable practices, I assure you.

Lost socks is a stone’s throw and it was deserted when I arrived with 3 washers and dryers ready for use. They cost $3 for a wash and $1 for 10 minutes of drying, thus for about $6 and an hour, one could have some coffee or a nibble at the cafe and procure fresh knickers, sox, and shirts, without fear of losing anything in the balance. Apparently, this is a thing when you use the $1/1kg laundries about town. That and the fact that they hang the clothes in front of the store, by the dusty road, and that it takes up to 24 hours to get them back. As much as I would love to support the local community, and not do my own chores, laundry is not that tough and I could write, eat, or surf while it’s happening, and they get folded the first time to my liking, so it’s a three-fer.   We’ll see how I feel tomorrow.

I saw a lot of textures:

Next I wander further a field to take an alternate route home and look for a market for room supplies. I found Pub Street and had a lookie loo there. About what I expected, perhaps tamer. I wandered an alley or two and nearer the hotel I found a smaller market where I got 2 big bottles of water and a largish market where I bought sunscreen, toothpaste, sweet basil flavoured crisps, some almonds, and a box of Julie’s dark chocolate Cocoros.

Back home, I watched some telly to catch up with the 3 English news channels, caught up with the local gossip, and deleted most of my emails. I was ready for bed by 11pm despite the slightly bumpy beats of the club around the corner. Not enough to keep me awake or of my notice unless I listened for it, and certainly not louder than the din of NYC at night.

Not unexpectedly, Monday morning I awoke early! Fussed about, reading, writing, and yes, even some ‘rythmatic. Had a shower, breakfast, and readied for my 9am pick up. I was excited for today although there were some hiccups and issues to resolve in my near future. My driver arrived and the desk attendant walked me out to meet them. As soon as they walked away I discovered that English would not be a common language between, as I had requested. I decided to roll with it and make it part of the adventure. I didn’t have a ticket so the driver took me to a ticket center in town where there was no waiting. $37, a pictured ticket in hand, and we were on our way. A short drive brought us to the temples and as we passed Angor Wat the driver tried to explain this was the Small Tour and I had booked the Big Tour. Stop the presses! You mean, Angor Wat, my raison d’etre for coming to Siem Reap was not on the agenda? No. Change the agenda. I spent a good hour plus inside, talking tons of pictures, meditating, and enjoying the sights and sounds. I met a monkey sitting on a rock on my way out, but was saddened to see it had a bum leg as a motorcycle driving by frightened it from its spot.

Back in the tuk tuk we drove by more monkeys and I’m thinking, why are we not stopping for a photo op? Apparently, I would learn that temple was NOT on the tour. I figured there would be more monkeys later. I was wrong. We did visit 4 or 5 more temples. Each different, lovely, and in various states of ruin. Some of them had people who would say a prayer for you while tying a coloured string on your wrist.

The final one had all the trees growing trough and was a nice way to end. I managed another short meditation in there somewhere. I could fill a volume with the pictures.

The drive back was relaxing and I shot some footage along the way. Back at the hotel, I ordered some lunch for lunchside, changed into me suit, and had a meal and a swim. This was followed by the requisite naps, albeit an hour not 15 minutes. Afterwards I did a big loop in another part of town, although I did return to Lost Socks to get another look. I noticed one person there this time, so people do use it. Still haven’t figured out laundry detergent yet though. Might just use the soap from the hotel. Went and had a 30 minute foot massage that was more of a lower leg massage, and a disappointing one at that. It was $2. Not quite satisfied with that, I stopped elsewhere for a full, hour-long, full-body, oil, massage. This one was quite good and for only $9. Another pitstop at the grovery for more water and some dark chocolate. And, finally, I stopped into My Little Cafe for some nibbles before home.  Had some Morning Glory with black bean sauce and a Vegetable Amok. Both were tasty and for $4.50, definitely a good deal. A bit knackered after my meal, it was time for home and to unwind before bed. That being 2 hours ago.

Not sure what;s on for tomorrow. It’s a free day although I have some rough ideas. Perhaps yoga, meditiation, food, shopping, laundry, the Phare Circus….

Fell asleep around 11 or 12 so I was up at 5am, although I managed to linger in bed until 6am when I got up. Had some not entirely disgusting instant coffee in the room while I showered and dressed for breakfast. The breakfast on offer at the hotel, if I haven’t already mentioned, has lots to choose from. They will make an omelet to order, but they also have 3 hot dishes which rotate daily and include a egg and noodle dish, a meat, and a potato (one day it was mashed with bacon bits!).  There’s also fresh fruit, youghurt, cereals, and breads: a white, a croissant, and a roll. Coffee, Tea and 2 juices, orange and strawberry, round out the buffet.

It was still quite early so I decided to pack up my small collection of dirty laundry and see what the situation was at Dirty Socks. I found one other person there putting clothes into the dryer so I decided to take the hour and get it done ove a cup of coffee and  some day planning. One tidbit I found out is that the machines automatically add detergent so that makes THAT easier. The cafe itself is quite cute, seats about 20, and has a nice menu of breakfast and lunch items. The coffee was good, albeit at $2 seemed a little high for the area.

I planned out a rough sketch for the day: a wander towards the Museum, then to Khymer Ceramics, and then back home. I turned down Sivutha Blvd stopping into a Japanese where I bought 2 sheer t-shirts: one white and one black; a store across the street where I bought a $5 supposedly silver bracelet that matches my necklace; and the lucky mall where I bought a few designer(?) shirts: a black Burberry pullover for $25 and a Moncler t-shirt for $7. I wandered through the Royal Residence gardens on my way to the Angkor National Museum. There’s an audio guide, which I didn’t get, and plenty of signage in English. Spread over two floors, it is MUCH larger than I expected. It wasn’t really of super interest to me, but I managed to spend quite some time in side and did learn that Angkor Wat is the largest religious structure ever built and that it was built by King Suryavarman II in the period 1113–50. I also learned that Angkor Thom was once the Khymer capital. Good to know since I was thinking that they were all temples, each trying to outdo one another in sort of an attempt to out-McMansion one another.

In the shop, I opted not to buy the bowl with the chopstick holes I fancied since I was told I’d be able to buy it at Khymer Ceramics. I did stop into T Galleria next door to look at some luxury goods and after dancing around a $200 pair of Prada’s eventually realized that a) they really looked only ok, b) I barely wear sunglasses as it is, inlcuding the pair I bought in Paris recently, and c) I don’t take good care of my glasses.

Along the way I encountered some locals watching a snake eating lunch. I eventually made my way to the Ceramics place to pick up my piece. I was disheartened to hear it was fired but not glazed. Apparently the look on my face was quite telling as they told me I could select a piece under $10 from the shop for free. I looked around for the bowl with chopstick holes only to have to ask and be told that they were sold out. Zero for Two! I finally selected an eccentric cup with celadon glaze that I thought would match the bowl I now had to go back to the museum to buy. The ceramics place was quite accomodating and, as I mentioned, I did (mostly) enjoy the adventure. They helped find me a tuk tuk and $2 later I was back in the museum shop. They lovingly wrapped it in bubble wrap and even gave me an extra piece. I walked the rest of the way back to the hotel, stopping here and there and procurring a fancy purple button down for $13. I tried my hand at haggling down to $10, but she wasn’t having it so I asked myself it it was worth the $13 and decided it was. I stopped in another shop and they tried to charge me $28 for a pair of cotton trousers and when I balked, they wanted to know how much I would pay. Having more than had my fill of haggling at the last stop, I decided I didn’t want them that badly.

Back at the hotel I ordered my free ‘set menu’ meal for an hours time and went up to my room to reax and review my purchases and put them away. I also tried to book the Phare Circus only to find they were sold out! I went down for dinner, which was four courses and delicious. I was the only person in the resto so they were quite doting.

Afterward I asked at the front desk if they had any magic tricks on procurring tickets to a sold out show. They called and lo, they did at the price point I was hoping for $18. The tix will be side seating and have some limited view, but that’s ok. They also arranged for a tuk tuk to not only take me there, but wait for me, and bring me back, for $6.

I killed a little time with a little walk, a short nap, catching up on some emails, and some relaxing. At 7:30, I went downstairs, procurred my ride and was off. The circus is only about 10 minutes away and as I arrived the crowd was streaming in via bus, tuk tuk, and on foot. I got my ticket, and was directed to my seat. The space is, shall we say, cozy, but I knew the show wasn’t overly long. The pre-show shows some video about the group and the work they do. The show began precisely on time. It involved a group of about 15 to 20 performers, musicians, and painters. It was basic stuff, juggling, tumbling, and goofing, but it really was fun. The use of rice made me a little nervous (slippage issues), but they seemed to work around it.

I came back to the hotel and then headed right out for a night massage before bed. Decided on a foot massage this time at the same spot. Specifically requested a foot, as opposed to a foot and leg, massage and was accomodated. Chickened out and only did 30 minutes, but wished I’d done more. Think I might go back for one final body massage tomorrow as I have quite a bit of time before my flight.

Wednesday I woke up EARLY, before dawn, and rather than fight it, I got up and packed, mostly anyway. Just a few more tidbits to throw in the bag, but I am ready for a costume change before my flight and have me luggage sorted between what I need to take out for Hanoi and what can stay in the bag. Happy to report it all still fits easily as well although I have branched out to the second small backpack for the breakables and valuables just in case I do need to check/gate check. Off to breakie in a bit!

Downstairs, I asked to confirm my tuk tuk time and was told 3:30. I asked if I could move it up a bit to 3pm and then asked about check out time. I was told 12noon. Just then a manager walked up so I asked about a late check out. Between the two they replied I could have 1pm for free, but that people were booked into my room for later that night. Not a problem. 1pm would be great. I might not even need it, but it would be helpful. They also explained that, as policy, the extra hour was free, but the 3pm would cost 1/2 days charge. I thanked them and had my final big breakfast meal. Cereal, fruit, rice, potatoes, vegetables,  and of course coffee and juice. This time, there was also a third day of different hot items: pancakes, different potatoes, and a new rice dish. Very thoughtful to mix it up for people.

I planned my route and first went to a store nearby to see about passport photos. $3 for 4, ready in 15. Perfect. While I waited I had a pair of computer readers made across the street. 1.25s, $25, 15 minutes. Computer readers are simply a weaker pair of one’s current prescription. Since I wear +2, my doctor said I could probably use +1.25s or, if necessary, +1.5s. Easy peasy. IN terms of timing, both chores were perfect. A little nearby window shopping to kill some time and I was all sorted and read to go.

My first stop was across the river at Wat Bo. I almost missed the main temple for the ruin nearby. Upstairs there was a monk giving blessings, but I skipped this one. A meander down the road and back across the river I came to Wat Preah Prom Rath. This was an elegant collection of buildings, one of which was full of young monks, musicians and people was chanting and praying. I found a position nearby and meditated for about 5 minutes listening to the soothing chants.

Nearby I found a market where I bought two mostly unneeded Fjall Raven bags, one in red for $14 and, a bit further inside the market, another one in rust for $11. Having really wanted one in orange, I wasn’t competely satisfied, but they are both lovely and will work well as coordinated pieces. Some slow meandering found me back at the hotel, just before 12, a quick swim and sun, then a quick change into shorts and a t-shirt for a last massage.

Back at De Lounge, I was met by a slight, older women who would be my masseuse. Knowing better than to succumb to my initial instincts and go with nature. I was leg to a small room with pads on the floor as opposed to a table, where I stripped down to my underwear and laid down. After some initial discomfort as to where to put my nose, we settled on a pillow that would provide the necessary distance between face and bed. I was delightfully impressed with the level of professional touch and was soon oohing and ahhing my way through my massage. She asked at one point to remove my underwear which while a little unexpected, was entirely uncomfortable. Not being shy, and with some wrangling, they came off. It really just gave a little more access to my lower back and upper leg and I moved how I ‘dressed’ as she moved from top to bottom and side to side. After an hour, when she was almost done she asked if I wanted ‘that part’ massaged, but  declined.

Next we moved one to 30 minutes on the feet and while I expected to move to the outer room, she did her work right there. It was exquisite. And cost all of about $15 with tip.

Again back at the hotel, I showered and changed and arrived in the lobby around 2:50 to settle my bill say my final goodbyes. They checked my room and told me I’d left some things behind. I explained I did so on purpose, namely a few shirts, socks, and underwear I no longer wanted, in addition to my sunscreen and oil which I couldn’t bring on the plane.

A short ride in the back of my tuk tuk later and I’d arrived at REP. I felt a bit sad along the way to be leaving such glorious weather and peacefulness mostly, but having checked off all the items on my agenda, it was time to go and, besides, there was new land to explore!

As I passed through my initial check, I was told I would have to reprint my boarding pass as the paper copy would not suffice for the gate agent. I was early and there was no lone, and while the agent worked on the computer, I did a quick weight in of my bags. 9kg for the suitcase, and 4kg for the backpack. A bit over the combines 12kg for both, but she didn’t notice and let me go on my way. I’ve noticed that as long as the bag isn’t big, I mostly just get a pass.

I visited the Plaza Premium lounge and was impressed by the array of hot and cold food. A noodle bar, several hot food options like chicken curry, rice, vegeatables, desserts, plus coffees, tea, and some beers and, I think, liquors, to choose from. I had a delicious vegetable and rice curry and a few sweets so I was quite full when I went for boarding. In a few short hours, less than 2 I think, I’d be in Vietnam!  ONward!

 

 

 

 

 

Philly Staycation March 2019

OK, technically Philadelphia, fla-delph-ya, is NOT a staycation. But, it is just a stone’s throw down the road from my home in NYC or, more accurately, roughly a 90 minute Amtrak ride. The main attraction was the Philadelphia Flower Show. This year I bought tickets early and for a few dollars more became a member and secure early viewing hours for two. I also used a Hotels.com coupon to book two nights at the DoubleTree Hilton Center City. It should be noted that sometimes Hilton hotels are best booked on their own website for the additional perks, but in this case the coupon outweighed that option.

The train ride was on time and pleasant. The cost, booked well in advance, was $88 r/t.  Amtrak seats are comfortable, roomy, and being able to walk around is a great change of pace from air travel. Throw in the added benefits of quiet cars, café cars and being transported from city center to city center without the airport transfer experience and the difference for short distances is measurable in palpable levels of inner peace upon arrival.

My travel companion and I managed an early escape from Friday work and took a 4pm train, arriving into Philly 80 minutes later. It was a brisk, but dry, evening so we walked the 20 minutes to the hotel. I always try to wend a different route each time I go just to see new architecture and to take photos.

There’s some terrific old homes in Center City, including the one we would visit later that evening for dinner. Check in at the hotel was a breeze even with a convention at the hotel and a few Harlem Globe Trotters running around. There are less expensive rooms in town, but for the location, room size, and pool, the spacious two queen bed room at (roughly) $150 a night was a good deal. It’s near two SEPTA train lines, a 24 hour store, and a few theatres and nightlife options, and some great restaurants within walking distance.

I recently adopted a vegan diet so I was excited to try Vedge at 1221 Locust Street. It’s housed in an historic old brownstone, the Tiger building according to their website, so the inside is lovely. It’s devided up into a few rooms, a bar room with food service in the front, two small, dark, dining rooms, and a third brighter and open to the kitchen room. We arrived for our 9pm seating and were seated in one of the darker rooms which made seeing the presentation difficult, but perhaps that added to the taste sensations. The service was attentive and the selections small, but tasty. I prefer small plates anyway, but I thought readers should know. When they give the menu they mention that most people order one from each of the three sections, Vedge Bar, Dirt List, and  The Grill. These roughly translate to appetizer, side, and main.  Not being normal people, we order two of the Vedge, one dirt and one Grill and shared. Not to worry, we were saving room for dessert. We tried one of the night’s special, and the rutabaga fondue. The special was fantastic, although hard to describe. The fondue was served in a too large French onion soup bowl with some neatly cut bread. The taste, however, was divine. For the dirt, we had the trumpet mushrooms which came plated with a creamy sauce that came close to overpowering, but didn’t. Finally we had the Wood Roasted Carrot which serves carrot in a variety of ways and was an exquisite display of culinary art. For our mocktails we had the Gingerbeer, which included demerara and lime and was nicer and spicy, and the Timberline Lodge which was a blood orange and soda concoction. The dishes came well-paced, one at a time, in a not-rushed, comestible pace.  We had our arms twisted and agreed to dessert, both the Sticky Toffee Pudding and the Dark Chocolate Namelaka. Both were adequately sweet without being sickly. Dinner for two was just under $100. Not an every night meal, but not a vacation, erm STAYcation, budget buster.

After a nice long walk-about/constitutional, we ended the night early, to be ready for a active Saturday.

To take advantage of the afore-mentioned early members hours, we had an early breakfast at HipVegCity. This small storefront chain serves burgers and wraps by day and breakfast options like the AMPhilly tofu scramble and tempeh sandwich and the Southwest Burrito Wrap. With coffee, under $20 bucks. Nothing special, but nice and tasty.

The show was good. Not as awe-inspiring as other years I’ve seen, but there are plenty of highlights and light bulb moments for everyone. I was left both wishing I could have a hand in city park planning and that I had a backyard. For several hours we looked at the winners for many different competitions, both grand-scale and small. There’s also an vendor area that we perused for about an hour too. My friend settled for buying some Lunaria, aka money tree, seeds.

After the show we braved the crowded Reading Market to the centrally located find Luhv Vegan Deli. Our Reuben sandwich and Garbanzo Bean Burger with two Arnold Palmers came quickly, which in this case was a good thing, for about $20. Finding somewhere to sit and eat in Reading is onerous so we went back to the convention center and ate there. Next we used our SEPTAkey cards to ride the 32 bus from city hall to the Philadelphia Museum of Art for the last days of the Dior show. I’m sorry it’s closed as you read this because it was great. So many years of fashions created by a plethora of very diverse designers like John Galliano, Balenciago, Yves Saint Laurent, Paco Rabanne, Patrick Kelly, etc….. both for the house of Dior and as counterpoints. The silver one is Metallic lame velvet by Geoffrey Beene. The green skirt was so fabulously beaded and detailed while paired with a simple halter top. The hat was clearly worthy of Alexis Carrington.

A bit of a wander through the museum’s permanent collection brought us to the 5pm closing time and another 32 bus ride back to Center City. After some news and a refresh, we hit the vegan Charlie Was A Sinner for dinner. We had eaten there before some months back but only for drinks and apps so we were excited for a more comprehensive dinner visit. Our server was friendly and knowledgeable on the menu and was able to navigate us to some delectable items. Here we ordered 4 app and one main: artichoke frites, one of the specials, crab cakes, kale salad, and the buccatini and meatballs. Here two they came well-paced, almost one at a time as they came from the kitchen. We paired them with Spicy Apple and Blackberry Ginger mocktails. We finished the meal with a pumpkin Cheesecake with cocounut milk whipped foam. We ended the night on the town, but what happens in Philly at night is going to stay there.

The next morning we had a bit of a lie-in forgoing a few of the traditional Philly sights that were on our list for a re-visit, Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, Betsy Ross House, for a little extra shut-eye. We breakfasted at P.S. and co. on Locust and although we didn’t have a reservation, they did fit us in promising we’d be finished by 11am. We had the breakfast burrito and the chocolate quinoa pancakes with mushroom bacon. For drinks we had the “automated pour-over” coffee for $3, but forewent the additional milk and sugar for $1.5 extra. It felt a little too much for everyday breakfast, but would be great for a special occasion and it was absolutely delicious. Breakfast for two was around $60.

From here we walked north to the Cathedral of SS Peter and Paul. They were having a mass so we wandered along the side from the entrance to the side exit. From there we walked over to the Philadelphia Academy of Fine Arts, which is free on Sundays for the Rina Banerjee show. We started in the smaller building and were glad we did. We saw a nice mix of work on the 2^nd floor and some nice student work downstairs including these two pieces by Shannon Dougherty which I hope will soon be hanging in my personal gallery, Blue Amour and Pink on Blue Amour.

In the main building/mansion, Rina’s work was interspersed throughout amongst the permanent collection with great effect.

After one last walk to the hotel to pick up the bags and head to the train, Philly staycation was coming to end with a second Amtrak ride home. It was a great 48 hours with many more stones left unturned. Hope you enjoyed the ride with me.

 

November 2018

My 2018 birthday fell on Thanksgiving proper, November 22nd if you’re taking note, so I decided to take a long weekend and go as far away as I could. As a United frequent flyer, I chose a direct flight to Hong Kong as my long-haul destination and requested an upgrade using points and dollars. I was on a wait list for a couple months and then I got the email telling my upgrade was approved. 16 hours in a lay-flat seat each way here I come!

The flight over was booked for the night of a big snow storm in NYC, but I got a text my flight would be late but was expected to leave. I personally would have preferred moving the flight earlier, but hey. I got to the airport and since I had the upgrade also got to spend some time in the new Polaris lounge in Newark terminal C. It is a nice lounge. Rivals London in many ways, although that remains my favourite, for reasons you’ll read when I add

I then decided I was going to visit Bangkok, since I had never been and decided to include a trip to spend some time with elephants. Originally I started looking at the Surin elephant festival but read too many things about how one shouldn’t ride elephants and that they might be abused so I kept looking. A little more research unearthed Loi Krathong in Chiang Mai.

This showed great promise since I could visit an elephant refuge nearby ON my birthday AND celebrate the lantern festival (floating and air-launched) the next day. Having settled on the locations, I set forth looking for flights and hotels and travel between the two cities. I use Google Flights extensively for my flight research although I do consult a few other sites as necessary. For the flights, I started by looking for a flight out of Hong Kong, HKG, as close to my arrival time as possible, while leaving a satisfactory buffer. I found one that would take off about 3 or 4 hours after I landed, but unfortunately dumping my in Bangkok, BKK, at 2am. OOFA.

For my return flight I was trying to land in HKG the day before my flight home because I wanted to visit the giant Buddha via tram on the top of Lantau Island. I was hoping for an early flight so I could have a good day and possibly stay at a hostel on the mountain top over night. I found an ungodly early flight which would get me to HKG at a good time, but I couldn’t find a way OFF the mountain to catch my flight back to NYC. So, I ended up booked one night on Hong Kong Island. I had a few choices for hotels, one cheapo up the hill and closer to Hong Kong station, but I chose an ibis that was along the water and on more transit, bus and tram, routes since I’d need to leave around 7 or 8am.

In terms of getting between Bagkok and Chiang Mai there are several options: bus, train, and plane. The bus, while shorter than the train, seemed not a good option for me. I wanted to fly, as it was a short flight, but the cheapest flights were super early and I was already doing one of those. So, I settled on the train, hoping for the more modern overnight train I read about. I waited, not-so-patiently, for the day booking opened and was locked out of first class immediately. I ended up in a 2nd class car, but had read it would be not quite as private, but would be fine. Spoiler alert: it was.

Next up was the look for hotels. I had an annual Marriott free night to burn, from my Marriott rewards branded credit card so I looked there first. I also found some cool looking cheaper hotels and hostels so I decide to split the difference between the Zen Hostel Shilon 14 and the Marriott Surawongse. This decision turned out to be an excellent one since I lost my first night to snow.

Finally, I looked for a hotel in Chiang Mai based on two criteria: price and pool. When I saw a centrally located hotel named  Somwang, I knew I found what I was looking for.

When looking for hotels, there are a few key criteria to balance. One is entrance and exit strategy. Is there an late arrival or early leave? Do you need to be near transport to get to or from the airport? Another consideration is what do you want to do at night? How easy is it to get home from a late night venue to the hotel? Can you erase that factor by making it somewhere walkable? A third is how close it is to daily transportation. I look for a close by subway or buses, something not too desolate. There are other things to consider of course, safety issues, proximity to restaurants, food, sundries, shopping, and distance from tourist locations, but the first three are my main factors in my decision making.

Along the way I start a document, these days in Google Drive so I can access it anywhere, with all  my dates and travel itinerary. When researching tourist sites, I always make note of opening and closing dates and times, and try to wend a trail that does the least amount of backtracking.  My itineraries, itins, tend to be full with the knowledge that some of the items will fall to the wayside should I wish to linger longer somewhere else. I often bold the MUST DOs  so I can make a quick spot decision.

Another document I add to is to add my travel items, and/or any ticketed events, to my calendar, again, in my case, Google Calendar. One nice feature is that it allows me to enter the time in the local time using the local time zone and you can enter different start and end time zones. For this reason I also will enter the exact time IN the name of the event, but be wary sometimes the calendar will read this as the time and assume you do not want it in the name so do check or re-add it in. Since the time will revert to the current time zone, I might see an entry like this in NY: 11:30am (the calendar generated time of the event) plus 5:30p Arr CDG. (the name of the event  I created). I’ll post a few of my itineraries later to give you a better look.

Well, that’s the recap of the planning stage. Next I’ll post the itin and a recap of my trip. Hope you “enjoy the ride”.

 

 

Hi,

My name is Azo and I love to travel. I enjoy the journey, meeting new people, seeing things, taking photos, and exploring different cultures. My goal with this new blog is to share some of my travels with you to either live vicariously through, compare your own travels against, or to give you ideas and suggestions on where to go and what to do.

I hope you enjoy Azo’s Travels.

 

 

 

Thanks for joining me!

It’s not where you go, it’s who you go with.